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Don’t know your white tie from your lounge suit? Read on.
Morning suit
In the past, weddings were held in the morning (hence the wedding breakfast that follows), with the groom wearing a morning suit, while a later wedding requiring an evening suit. Most grooms still prefer the elegance of a morning suit, whatever the time of day, though most often they’re worn for weddings before 3pm.
The suit is a combination of penguin dress coat, top hat and tails. The cut and style of the coat is very flattering to the majority of figures and consists of a blue, black or grey tailcoat paired with matching or contrasting trousers, either plain or pinstriped. The outfit is worn with a white wing-collar shirt, a waistcoat of any colour, a cravat (often called an Ascot), a top hat and a pair of gloves (just held, not worn).
For a less formal wedding with a modern-day slant, opt for a tailored jacket rather than tails and team it with a classic white shirt. Knot your cravat as you would a tie and forget the top hat.
Black tie (aka dinner suit)
This is traditionally worn for weddings later in the day or those to be followed by a formal reception, and it’s an ideal style for a grand evening reception or summer ball. If you're opting for black tie, you should inform your guests of this dress code.
It’s a pretty formal look: you should wear a black dinner jacket, either single or double-breasted, with ribbed silk lapels, preferably not satin, with no vents or covered buttons. Trousers should be tapered, suitable for braces and, officially, have one row of braid. The evening shirt, in cotton or silk, with either a marcella or pleated front, has a soft, turn-down collar and your bow tie should be black silk. Cummerbunds can be worn (with pleats opening upwards), but waistcoats are still much more acceptable and can be made as individual as you like with a colourful bow tie, matching waistcoat and pocket handkerchief. Shoes should be black and well polished and socks just plain black.
Now let’s completely contradict all that! These days, you can wear a dinner suit in any colour you like, and it you want ribbed satin lapels, who's looking closely? Covered buttons are still tacky. If you want flared trousers with two rows of braid, go for it. But don't get rid of the rows of braid altogether, it's a classic hallmark of black tie. If you feel the need to wear one of those hilarious shirts with frogs or lipstick prints on, don't hold back (but check with Her Indoors first). Your socks can match your suit, shoes, waistcoat or the colours of the rainbow. Sports shoes are still out though -- sorry.
White tie
A white tie event is the most formal of all occasions. You need to wear a black evening tail coat with silk facings, black dress trousers with a white marcella waistcoat, a dress shirt and bow tie. You must leave some starched white cuff showing below the jacket sleeve and the waistcoat should just cover the waistband of the trousers but not show below the foreparts of the jacket. If you're in white tie, trying to add your own individual touch may look less like personalisation and more like not having a clue, so stick to the rules.
