Confetti East’s A-Z of fashion terms

Don’t know your achakan from your kalidhar? Here’s our quick guide to technical fashion terms from South Asia...

Lehenga a long skirt, worn in combination with a choli (bodice) and a odhni (veil)
Leheria a resist-dyeing technique which results in a multi-striped or chequered, multi-coloured pattern
Meenakari inlay of colours as in enamelling
Mojris ethnic embroidered jutis (shoes)
Odhini veil
Pagri a turban worn by men
Pallav decorative border, usually at one end of a sari
Pashmina finest grade of cashmere that is a short, thin inner layer hair from Himalayan goats
Pathani silk sari with gold border and pallav with silk brocaded motifs in an interlocked tapestry technique
Patola double ikat of Patan, Gujurat
Patiala similar to a salwar but with more pleats and cowls, usually made of silk or any smooth flowing fabric
Patka a girdle or kamarband, worn over pyjamas, often very decorative
Phulkari literally meaning flowerwork, term for type of embroidery practiced by women in Punjab, using floss-silk on coarse cotton cloth in darning stitch worked from the back of the fabric
Princess line a vertical design line that crosses the bust point, equivalent to a dart
Puncha machined cuffs to salwar, usually has interesting patterns of seamlines on it
Pyjama trouser like garment, in a variety of cuts, fabrics and shapes, worn both by men and women
Resham silk thread
Salma square spirals of metal
Salwar baggy trousers traditionally worn with a tunic in North India
Sari worn by women, this continuous length of cloth, has three main parts: body, border and pallav, which is wrapped around the waist and over one shoulder, usually 6 metres long, except the Maharastrian sari, which is 9 metres
Sharara a loose trailing pyjama that gives the appearance of lehenga, worn usually by muslim women
Sherwani a coat like garment worn by men, close fitted, closed neck, high collared worn along with a churidar and long scarf around the neck
Tanchoi Chinese influenced brocade from Surat
Tussar raw silk originally worn for puja by women of the Rajgarh and Bilaspur districts of Madhya Pradesh
Ulta Pallav a sari pallav worn in fan pleats over the torso
Zardosi work gold or silver metal threads are sewn on fabrics like satin or velvet or with metallic threads to give the appearance of true embroidery; it is normally heavy and can comprise of mirrors, sequins, springs, pipes, pearls, precious and semi-precious stones
Zari fine quality metallic gold thread twisted over cotton or silk for brocading and embroidery, also known as jad
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